Henri Giraud’s Aÿ Grand Cru MV20 is a powerful yet refined Champagne showcasing the distinctive character of Aÿ. Crafted from 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay, with 33% drawn from a perpetual reserve established in 1990, it combines depth and maturity with remarkable freshness. Barrel-aged in a 50/50 combination of new and once-used oak, the wine reveals pear, mirabelle plum, dried apricot, orange zest and toasted bread, alongside subtle nutmeg and chalky notes. Full-bodied and muscular yet beautifully precise, its bright acidity, polished texture and exceptionally long finish make it an impressive expression of Aÿ Grand Cru.

James Suckling | JS 97
Published: Jul 11, 2025

A wild energy here with sliced dried apricots, lychees, Asian pears and iodine. Chalk. Medium-bodied, it has a very tight palate with elegance and structure. Extremely long and polished. Pinot noir with a dash of chardonnay. Aged 11 months in 50% old and 50% new wood barrels. Dosage 5 g/L. Disgorged November 2024. Drink or hold.

The Wine Advocate | RP 94
Published: Aug 7, 2025
Drink: 2026-2037

Disgorged in May 2024 with a dosage of five grams per liter, Henri Giraud’s NV Aÿ Grand Cru MV20 is composed entirely from Aÿ fruit and blends 80% Pinot Noir with 20% Chardonnay. Based on the 2020 vintage and enriched with 33% from the perpetual reserve established in 1990, it is vinified in a mix of 50% new oak and 50% once-used barrels. It rises from the glass with a compelling bouquet of pear, mirabelle plum, orange zest and apricot, mingling with toasted bread and nutmeg. Full-bodied and textural, with a robust and muscular profile, it reveals intricate layers and captivating charm, uplifted by bright acidity and culminating in a long, precise finish. Observant tasters will note that this cuvée no longer bears the Fût de Chêne designation; it is now simply labeled MV followed by the last two digits of the base vintage, which typically constitutes around two-thirds of the blend.

Well known for their barrel-fermented, muscular and vinous wines, Henri Giraud owns 10 hectares of vineyards, which account for approximately one-third of their total grape requirements. Around 40% of the fruit is sourced from Aÿ and its neighboring areas. While some of the parcels from which they purchase grapes are farmed by their team, even those not under their cultivation are managed according to Henri Giraud’s guidelines. In all cases, their own team picks at harvest time.
Chef de cave Sébastien Le Golvet—originally trained as a stonemason—explains that the estate practices thoughtful viticulture, eschewing herbicides and synthetic fertilizers in favor of rolled cover crops, with two to three full cultivations per year.
They craft their own barrels in collaboration with tonnelleries Gauthier, Chassin and Mercurey. The oak is sourced exclusively from the Argonne forest and selected through Tonnellerie de Champagne’s merranderie, where Henri Giraud maintains a dedicated space. There, the staves are split and pared before being seasoned. The wines undergo complete malolactic fermentation, and tirage occurs just before the next harvest—following a blending and clarification phase in June or July—allowing the vins clairs to spend about 10 months on the lees in oak, contributing to their textural, patinated style. Approximately 10% of the barrels are renewed each year. Dosage is typically between five to six grams per liter.
Their most emblematic non-vintage cuvée—the MV—is aged in 50% new barrels, with the remainder matured in once-used oak. Discerning tasters may have noted that this cuvée no longer carries the Fût de Chêne designation; it is now simply labeled MV, followed by the final two digits denoting the base vintage, which typically comprises approximately two-thirds of the blend.
In contrast, the vintage-dated Argonne cuvée is matured entirely in new oak. The Argonne is crafted exclusively from estate-grown fruit sourced from four to five parcels in Aÿ, using only the most acid-driven press fraction—the heart of the cuvée.
The Argonne Rosé, essentially a counterpart to the white version, is also aged exclusively in new oak, but it is distinguished by the addition of 6% still red wine, likewise sourced from Aÿ.
For their non-vintage wines, Le Golvet employs an individual perpetual reserve system. They typically store this reserve without the lees in square concrete tanks lined with stainless steel and refresh it by 30% each year.
While in their youth these Champagnes exhibit considerable power and distinctive patina derived from barrel maturation, the perception of new oak—whether embraced or resisted—largely depends on the taster’s personal preferences and threshold of perception. Nevertheless, one can be equally assured of their capacity to evolve with complexity over time.