The 1996 vintage offers a fascinating balance of rich sweetness and striking minerality. Aromas of quince, lemon, lily, and hints of petrol unfold alongside stony, almost Riesling-like freshness. On the palate, it’s concentrated yet light on its feet, with nervy acidity, layers of dried fruit, and a long, complex finish. A beautifully mature Chenin Blanc that’s both powerful and refined.

The Wine Advocate | RP 90
Published: Aug 31, 2010

The most recent release of Moulin Touchais (for more about whose unusual operation, see my report in issue 172) is a 1996 Coteaux du Layon that illustrates the striking combination of mineral and nobly sweet characteristics that were possible in this unusual vintage, though its notoriously high acidity is scarcely noticeable thanks to the balance lent by high sugar and the harmony conveyed by time in bottle. Alkaline and wet stone aromas here approach the effect of sticking one’s head down a moss- and algae-covered cistern, accompanied by scents of lily, narcissus, quince preserves, stale bread, musk, and sweat. The rich quince character is carried and complimented by a juicy and not at all heavy palate impression, and this finishes with remarkable refreshment and pronouncedly alkaline and stony minerality, as well as snuffed candle wick smokiness and bitterness of quinine. Prices for these wines continue to be quite reasonable considering their combination of quality and late release that permits access to mature nobly sweet Chenin. Such access was still nearly universal in the early ‘80s, when Terry Theise first piqued my interest in nobly sweet Loire Chenin, but gradually the art of holding old stocks died, along with the fashion for these wines – indeed, along with many once-renowned domaines.

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Once in the winery, the grapes immediately go into the press for a gentle pressing. 

This is followed by a spontaneous fermentation, brought on by indigenous yeasts and at a controlled temperature, in order to express the terroir, vintage and climate of MOULIN TOUCHAIS. This fermentation can last until January.

According to age-old tradition, the wine is bottled immediately after the cold weather in winter in order to preserve all the freshness of the wine. The bottles then spend at least 10 years ageing down in the cellars. No bottle is released for sale until its tenth birthday. This ageing allows the wine to develop a fabulous character in the bottle.

The wines are tasted regularly by Jean-Marie Touchais to ensure that only the finest bottles of wine are shipped to our customers around the world. This guarantee of high quality is somewhat unique in the world of viticulture.

- 1996 - 

Quite high-toned apple and lemon aromas, again with plenty of stoney minerality on the nose. This is (for me) where Chenin takes on an almost Riesling-like character, with some definite grapey, petrol/kerosene aromas. The palate shows power, concentration and complexity, with waves of dried fruit flavours, nervy acidity and immnse length. A wine which manages to be both powerful and delicate at the same time.