Source: The Wine Advocate; Published: Jul 06, 2023 (RP-97)
The 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon is a child of the 2020 season, which was warm, early and low yielding, and the wines from the area have been decidedly structural, lushly fruited and powerful. All in all, they are excellent quality across the board, and this wine here is no exception. Dense tannins, layered with pink peppercorn, nori, blood, brine and bay leaf, were quite firm in this vintage, but with knowledge of how this wine ages, this is not a problem in the least. I’ve given it a conservative drinking window by decades, if stored well. Sealed under screw cap.
Drink Date: 2023 – 2055
Source: jamessuckling.com. Issue Date: Monday, February 7, 2022 (JS-95)
A legend of the Australian fine wine scene, with an enviable track record of ageable grandeur. Full-weighted, to be sure, yet far from obvious as the pummel of classy mocha oak and impeccably gleaned grape tannins expand and recoil with air. All class. Detailed, fine boned and juicy. Currant, bay leaf, graphite and hedgerow, evidencing Australia’s propensity to promote a controlled lilt of greenness for lift and freshness, over the American tendency to massage it out. I far prefer the former approach. This will make fine old bones. Best after 2026.
COLOUR AND CONDITION
Youthful, dense ruby hue; bright condition.
This is one of the more ethereal Cabernet Sauvignons we have released. It combines both freshness, with the attendant perfumes of raspberries, roses and violets, and ripeness, featuring classic blueberry and red currant aromas, all courtesy of the terrific growing season. Behind these are the typical varietal complexities produced by long-term barrel age including tar, wax, cedar, chocolate, mixed spices and tobacco. They all combine to give a volume seen only in the great years.
Expectations are high after such a promising nose and the same impact is immediately evident. A series of flavours flow across the palate, including blueberry, cranberry, red currant and liquorice, almost taking us back to the future with memories of the opulence of 1976, combined with the complexity of 2005. The structure is in the well-balanced Moss Wood mode, with full body, fresh acidity and soft tannins, with a touch of toasty oak, chocolate and cloves on the finish.
We enthusiastically recommend this wine for cellaring. It has the concentration and complexity to age gracefully for decades. However, there will be a dilemma to wrestle with in the short term because the fruit generosity and balance are such that it is very drinkable now. Our best advice is for those who are keen to cellar it and enjoy older wine, it should be kept for at least 10 years and by which time it will be showing some of its complex bottle bouquet and the structure will be starting to soften. However, full maturity is unlikely to be reached before 25 years of age and it should last for several decades beyond that.