A vibrant and elegant white from the Ornellaia estate, blending Sauvignon Blanc, Vermentino, Viognier, Verdicchio, and Semillon. Bright citrus, green apple, and exotic fruit meet hints of sage, mint, and flinty minerality. Fresh, balanced, and graceful, with lively acidity and a long, refreshing finish. Perfect with seafood or Mediterranean cuisine.

The Wine Advocate | RP 91
Published: Feb 15, 2024
Drink: 2024-2026

Made mostly with 53% Sauvignon Blanc, 37% Vermentino, 6% Viognier, 2% Verdicchio and 2% Semillon, the 2022 Poggio alle Gazze dell'Ornellaia is fragrant and fresh with aromas of lemongrass, sweet sage, honey and green apple that hover high in the glass. Pretty mineral notes of flint and crushed stone round it off. This is a tart, easy-drinking white wine that would pair with the delicious fresh seafood catch of the day found along the Tuscan coast. The wine is partially aged in new and neutral oak and cement.

Here's a bit of news I am especially happy to report: between the sister estates Ornellaia and Masseto, bottle weight has been reduced by 82 tons in two years. The goal is to reduce an additional 12 tons before next year. For example, the bottle for the 2021 Masseto reviewed here was reduced by 150 grams to its current weight of 600 grams. This is a theme I have been following carefully (https://www.robertparker.com/wines/u8L84HES4Nid48LDw), because if a brand as important as Masseto takes a leadership stand on environmentally unfriendly glass bottles, other estates will surely follow.

This is a time of enormous change for Ornellaia and Masseto. Estate Director Axel Heinz left his position in March 2023 after nearly two decades in Bolgheri. The German-born, Bordeaux-trained winemaker is currently employed at Château Lascombes in Margaux. Axel joined the Tuscan estate in 2005 and oversaw the development of Ornellaia and Masseto as distinct brands, each with their own dedicated winery today. Lamberto Frescobaldi is president of the group today. Former Ornellaia CEO Giovanni Geddes, the visionary who brought Masseto to La Place de Bordeaux, announced his retirement in 2023.

Starting January 1, 2024, a new team was put into place. Marco Balsimelli is charged with production (returning home to Italy from Bordeaux, where he spent 17 years with Laboratoire Oenologique Boissenot) and Giuliano Tarchi is vineyard manager (for both Ornellaia and Masseto). Gaia Cinnirella is winemaker for Masseto, and the Ornellaia winemaker is Denise Cosentino (she replaces outgoing Olga Fusari).

The Ornellaia Bianco became a Bolgheri Bianco DOC wine starting in the 2021 vintage. I have previously reviewed that vintage, and you will find my note published in our database.

Ornellaia.com

Gazing towards the Mediterranean and deeply rooted in the identity of Ornellaia, Poggio alle Gazze reveals a refreshing spirit that is delicate like the breeze, while also remaining sumptuous and self-assured.

Winemaker's notes
“Poggio alle Gazze dell’Ornellaia 2022 displays an intense straw yellow colour. The early harvesting allows all the citrus and exotic fruit flavours to shine through ensued by minty notes. The aromatic freshness is confirmed on the palate with exceptional balance between length and acidity.”